Zoom the lens out to 100mm or further and lock the ‘CONV’ switch into place. This will allow your converter to fit without damaging the rear element of your lens. See your instruction leaflet for further details.

This is due to the lens hood blocking part of the light from the flashgun. Either remove the hood from the lens or purchase an external flashgun such as the EF-530 DG ST.

Ensure you are not using a DC lens on a full frame or 35mm film camera. If your lens uses a petal type lens hood, ensure this is correctly fitted otherwise the hood outline will appear in the corners of the picture. If your lens uses a front cap adaptor ring to hold the lens …

Continue reading “I am getting vignetting in the corners of my images.”

Very slight ‘play’ between lens and camera is quite common. If all the functions are working correctly, ie. the aperture information is being passed from the lens to the camera, you will not need to take any further action. If the functions are not working correctly, please send the lens into us.

This is more than likely due to a phenomenon called ‘bleeding’ on your image sensor. This is where light from one pixel bleeds over to an adjacent pixel which is designed to detect a different colour. This is a disadvantage to Bayer type sensors and the result is a thin red outline around dark areas …

Continue reading “I appear to be getting a thin red outline around high contrast areas in some of my pictures such as tree branches against a light sky.”

Small chips are unlikely to make any difference to picture quality and therefore is generally not worth any further action. Larger chips may cause flair under certain lighting conditions. If you feel this may be the case please contact us.

No. This will make no difference to image quality as the dust is too far away from the sensor. If you do have dust specs on your pictures, this will be due to dust particles on you image sensor.

Many lenses have large and heavy front optics which cause zoom creep. We suggest pointing your lens up or down 45 degrees to the horizontal. If your lens doesn’t creep, we are unable to tighten it. If however it still does, please send the lens into us.

Ensure that the camera / lens is in MF mode when manual focusing otherwise this could cause damage to the gearing system.

The majority of lenses we can rechip. However there are a few older lenses which we are unable to re-chip due to parts no longer being available. In order to answer your question, we need to determine which 70-300mm lens you have. If you look at the lens, is the Macro switch held on by …

Continue reading “I have an old Sigma 70-300mm lens which I gather needs ‘re-chipping’ to work on my new Canon digital SLR. Can this be done?”

This could either be due to the lens’ iris or the lens’ circuit which may need upgrading. Please contact us for further details. To speed up you enquiry, please have to hand the exact model number and serial number of your lens.

EX converters are matched tele-converters designed to give optimum quality. This does limit the lenses they can be used with. Please refer to the table here for a list of compatible lenses.

No, simply set the aperture ring to F22, marked in red, and lock the aperture ring. Then use the camera to change the aperture instead of the lens.

It is normal for this lens to make a slight buzzing noise. Please refer to the lens’ instruction leaflet for further details.

OS lenses do make a soft noise upon start up. This noise emits whilst the OS system is setting into position. Once the OS is set, generally after one or two seconds, the noise will stop. This is completely normal for OS lenses.

Simply turn the lens’ aperture ring to the minimum aperture (eg. f/22) where it will lock into position. This is usually indicated by an orange dot.